Tile grout along seams and corners of bathtubs and shower enclosures is vulnerable to cracking and breaking. When that happens, it must be repaired to prevent moisture from migrating into walls, framing, and flooring. Rather than re-grouting – a time-consuming task that requires a certain amount of skill -- many homeowners simply caulk affected areas.

 

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Caulk also is used to seal the bottom tracks and side rails of shower-stall doorframes to the enclosure, helping to keep water inside.

Choose all-silicone caulk, sold by home centers and hardware stores, when repairing a tub or shower enclosure. Silicone caulk is not paintable, but remains flexible over a wide range of temperatures. It doesn’t shrink as it dries as much as latex caulk; once cured, it will last longer, too. Silicone forms a barrier against deeply embedded mold, mineral scale, and soap scum, although all three may form on its surface. Most silicone caulk is either white or clear.

Silicone caulk can stand up to repeated cleanings with even harsh chemicals such as chlorine bleach and mineral-scale removers. Avoid the use of abrasive pads or brushes on silicone; they will roughen the surface and make future cleaning more difficult. Soft nylon brushes or white pads should be OK for persistent soils as long as you’re not too aggressive while using them.

Unlike latex, silicone caulk gives off strong fumes as it’s being applied. Ensure plenty of fresh-air ventilation through the bathroom and wear latex gloves when applying this caulk. Surgical-type gloves will allow you to smooth caulk after application by using an index finger. Have several squares of paper towels handy to wipe up and discard excess caulk.

Use a utility knife to remove all old caulk if you plan to replace worn-out caulk.